Scotch Pines Dog Training

Puppy Training

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Twin Falls, Idaho Falls and Anchorage Alaska
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He's in your hands, that soft and squirmy little creature who wants nothing more than to lick your chin. Through your care he can grow into a fine example of man's best friend. Without proper care and training, that innocent puppy can develop into a noisy and destructive nuisance. He can even become dangerous to you and your family. 
   As soon as possible. your new puppy should be examined by your local veterinarian  who will also advise you on other aspects of puppy health, such as regular checkups.
Keep your puppy clean and dry, feed him high quality puppy food three times a day, and make sure he has fresh water--and lots of love!
   His future is in your hands

The First Night
   Your pup will be scared and lonely the first night, and howling is normal. You can make him feel secure by giving him a "den" in the form of a small dog crate. Many people recoil at the thought of crating a puppy, but a dog's instinct to den makes him learn to appreciate a close, dark shelter. 
   Gradually accustom the pup to his crate by putting him in throughout the day for a few minutes at a time. Throw a treat inside and give his food and water the first day in his crate. If the pup falls asleep on your lap or the floor, gently put him in his crate. This will make the association with his crate positive.
   At night, line his crate with a towel, put in a chew toy, and put the crate next to your bed--even up on a chair at mattress level.   
   Don't make the mistake of moving him far away because he howls. This only makes things worse for the lonely pup and prolongs the nights of noise. Instead, try throwing a towel over his crate to block his view, or whapping on the wire door and saying "Hush!" or giving him a squirt of vinegar-laced water every time he makes noise. Praise him when he's quiet. This takes perseverance. Some pups respond within 5 minutes, others hold out much longer. (If you squirt him, you must dry him off when he settles down so he won't sleep chilled)  
   NEVER take him out of the crate when is crying or he will learn to cry for what he wants. After he has been sleeping for several hours and cries because he truly needs to eliminate, take him out.
   A much more pleasant way to get over the first night agonies is simply to tuck the pup in bed with you. Yes, it is harder to wean him of this, and you'll still have to teach him to be quiet in his crate by the above methods, but you will have made a positive first impression of security and friendliness before you have to start introducing discipline.

We offer puppy classes for pups from 12-20 weeks of age. This is a one on one class of 1.5-2 hours (depending on the needs of your puppy), we come to your home and cover the puppy basics: jumping up, chewing, housebreaking, socialization, nipping, etc.
 The cost of this one time class is $125 for appointments Monday and Tuesday between 9 am and 1 pm, Wednesday and Thursday appointments offered before noon . Please text 208-899-7487 (during normal business hours/ days) to schedule your class 
For puppy socialization we do not recommend group puppy classes, instead we suggest looking into puppy playdates which are offered by several local boarding facilities 



Housebreaking schedule 



*Rise early, carry pup outside immediately and praise when he goes potty.

*Tie puppy to your waist with a 10' string and go about your morning duties for 30-60 minutes (if he piddles while tied, shorten the string).

*Tie string to doorknob and leave pup with his food and water for 10 minutes.

* Take pup outside to potty, untie the string from your waist and let puppy drag it.

*Tie puppy to your waist for 30-60 minute playtime.

*Take puppy outside to potty, letting string drag.

*Crate puppy for mid-morning nap (2-3 hours).

*Take puppy outside, letting string drag.


* Tie pup to the doorknob for noon feeding.

*Take puppy outside to potty, letting string drag.

*Tie puppy to your waist for 30-60 minute play time.

*Take puppy outside to potty, letting string drag.

*Crate pup for afternoon nap (2-3 hours).

*Take puppy outside to potty, letting string drag.

*Play with pup outside, let him explore.

*Take pup to town for socialization and new sights.

*Let pup potty then crate him until dinnertime.

*Take puppy outside to potty, letting string drag.


*Tie pup to doorknob for evening feeding.

*Take puppy outside to potty, letting string drag.

*Tie puppy to your waist for 30-60 minute play time.

* Before retiring late, take pup outside to potty letting string drag.

*Crate puppy overnight.(Pups younger than 8 weeks may need to go out in the middle of the night).

With this schedule there should be no room for accidents, but if one should occur--it's YOUR fault. Do not discipline the pup. Clean it up with an enzyme cleaner, sold as pet stain remover.


Hang bells low from the doorknob and every time you take the pup out swat the bells with his paw saying "Want to go out?" Soon he'll be swatting the bells when he needs to go.

As his bladder and bowel control matures, (12 weeks) gradually let him have longer play times with the string dragging, not tied to you. When he nears the door or touches the bells, drop everything and run to let him out! Gradually cut the string back until it's gone.

A dog's urine contains an enzyme that normal carpet cleaners do not destroy. Every time your dog smells his urine spot it acts as a trigger in his brain telling him that is his potty spot. When your pup is fully housebroken, hire a professional carpet cleaner to treat your carpets with an enzyme eater to remove those tempting spots for your pup and begin with a clean slate!


Beginning the most important command:  



 The command "come" is interesting because when we get a puppy at 7-8 weeks they almost always come when we call them, this gives us a false sense of obedience when in actuality the puppy is simply coming to a happy voice! As they get older, 11-13 weeks they realize there is a big world to explore and that they have free will. Once they quit coming when called and sometimes even trying to get us to play along with their "catch me" game we see it as disobedience when really they never were taught or knew the command come in the first place!
 To begin teaching a command the first rule is this: one puppy, one command. Whichever command that is: sit, heel, down,stay, come, etc.  When we repeat commands we are effectively teaching the dog they can disobey us the first 3-4 times we say something or that they can until our voice reaches a certain decibel.. which makes us "Walmart parents"! 
 Get a 12 foot twine/rope (1/8th inch approx) and attach it the puppy's collar or harness, have them drag that around in the house and outside. Multiple times per day get close enough to the end of the rope that you can step on it and grab it, then call the dog to come: "Sadie Come" and immediately reel the pup in to you praising the whole way. Even if the pup is pulling away just gently pull them in. Lots of praise when they get to you then let them go. Do this over and over, repetition is key in training! What you are teaching the pup is first of all what the word come means and secondly that you have control of them even from a distance.  Never call the pup to come unless you can immediately enforce it (i.e have the rope close enough to grab).
 The dragging rope is also used to teach the dog not to bolt out of doors. Open the door, give the command "wait" (not stay, stay is much more formal) and when the pup goes to bolt, step on the rope and pull the pup back inside and praise.
You can also use this rope if your pup has started the "ha-ha-you-can't-catch-me-game". Simply step on the rope, pull the pup to you, take whatever object they have been been playing keep away with and Praise Praise Praise!!